=====Creality Ender 2 with some mods=====

I bought an ender 2 as it was the only one that would fit inside an [[https://s17-us2.startpage.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Femtu852xffb21.png&sp=be1fd7c70db2cc8ada5b0ae77e78f116&anticache=316861|Ikea ALEX storage unit]].

I want to do the following modifications : 
  * Be able to print Nylon.
  * Make it completely silent.
  * Have a longer Y axis (approximatively 2 times).

Bought [[https://www.banggood.com/Ender-Ender-2-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-1_75mm-0_4mm-Nozzle-150-150-200mm-Printing-Size-p-1134488.html|here]] for 269 CAD + shipping / Received in 25 days.

====Problems : ====

  * The backlash nut receiving the Z rod is too far to the back (probably from irregularities in the folding process of the bracket holding it). This can be solved by bringing the Z motor back, see those thingiverse attempt to fix this common problem (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2816946, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526607). My take on it was to make a custom adjustable bracket out of aluminum corner I had laying around https://i.imgur.com/bNhXhOz.jpg .
  * issue : https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/15624
  * Followed the solution with the 6.8k for the inductive probe (after falling in the trap he describes) https://mertarauh.com/2017/01/18/dont-trust-the-internet-and-how-to-add-an-inductive-proximity-sensor-to-your-3d-printer-the-proper-and-easiest-way/

====Modifications : ====

===Purchase list===
  * <del>[[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967045729.html|PINDA probe]] (16.54 CAD) because, from [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY|Tom Sanladerer's video]], it's the most accurate solution, and that's what Prusa uses on their machines. Install guide : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-spQEAR4zo</del> The 4 wire version i bought doesn't work with Marlin, so I bought this one then : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M3S37ZH/
  * [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32980082706.html|SKR 1.3 Main board w/ TMC2208 UART]] (51.66 CAD) because 32 bits Marlin 2.0 + the other alternatives to make it silent are the Creality Silent Board (more expensive and more limited), the MKS Gen Board (not the smartest routing + bad open source vision) or the Duet Wi-Fi (way too expensive).
  * All metal hot end for printing nylon -- <del>still debating between the Micro Swiss and E3D V6. Micro Swiss is a drop-in replacement, E3D V6 is Prusa's choice. [[https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend|E3D V6]] 60 US [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32880330477.html|bracket]] 30 CAD,</del> micro swiss le moins cher chez [[https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/cr10-all-metal-hotend-kit?variant=12699863056427|3d printing canada]]
  * [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998768008.html|Steel bed]] (44 CAD) because they do custom size + metal sheet is necessary to work with the PINDA probe + recommended surface (PEI) to print nylon.
  * [[https://keenovo.store/products/keenovo-custom-designed-and-manufactured-silicone-heaters-payment-link|Silicon heater]] (46 CAD, custom quote via [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/856909633.html|Aliexpress message]]) for the new longer heatbed. 
  * Noctua fans all the way


===3D printed mods===

===Money spent in CAD, shipping inc.===

Money wisely spent (searched for the best price) :

  * Printer (banggood): 284.34
  * Probe (aliexpress) : 16.40
  * SKR Board with silent drivers (aliexpress) : 53.61
  * PEI+Steel sheet (aliexpress) : 55.55
  * Microswiss all-metal (3Dprintingcanada) : 112.62
  * Tungstene carbide nozzle (dyze design) : 69.11
  * Noctua fans + blower (amazon) : 82.53

Money less wisely spent (bought locally in a hurry) :

  * Two aluminum beds (abra) : 55.86
  * V slot rail (abra): 20.55
  * PT100 thermistor for microswiss (abra) : 5.98
  * 50W heater for microswiss (abra) : 8.39
  * OB-585 build plate (abra) : 27.90

So far, total : 792.84

Still cheaper than a Prusa, I have two hot ends I can swap (one for PLA, one for Nylon-CF), the Nylon-CF setup is top notch, the controler board is the best there is, I have autoleveling, and it (mainly) fits inside my ikea box :) :) (which acts as an enclosure, necessary for nylon).

===Notes===

Would I do it again / recommend? No, too much work. When you want to go custom I realised it is better to start from the most popular base (ie, Ender 3) and if there is a simple solution out there for your custom needs (ie, silent board from creality) choose it. 

Am i happy with it? Yes, works beautifully!

===Links===

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_B0FLT7NHY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGN2iSQ5j4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5M7DvdMcew