I bought an ender 2 as it was the only one that would fit inside an Ikea ALEX storage unit.

I want to do the following modifications :

• Be able to print Nylon.
• Make it completely silent.
• Have a longer Y axis (approximatively 2 times).

Bought here for 269 CAD + shipping / Received in 25 days.

• The backlash nut receiving the Z rod is too far to the back (probably from irregularities in the folding process of the bracket holding it). This can be solved by bringing the Z motor back, see those thingiverse attempt to fix this common problem (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2816946, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526607). My take on it was to make a custom adjustable bracket out of aluminum corner I had laying around https://i.imgur.com/bNhXhOz.jpg .
• issue : https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/15624
• Followed the solution with the 6.8k for the inductive probe (after falling in the trap he describes) https://mertarauh.com/2017/01/18/dont-trust-the-internet-and-how-to-add-an-inductive-proximity-sensor-to-your-3d-printer-the-proper-and-easiest-way/

• PINDA probe (16.54 CAD) because, from Tom Sanladerer's video, it's the most accurate solution, and that's what Prusa uses on their machines. Install guide : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-spQEAR4zo The 4 wire version i bought doesn't work with Marlin, so I bought this one then : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M3S37ZH/
• SKR 1.3 Main board w/ TMC2208 UART (51.66 CAD) because 32 bits Marlin 2.0 + the other alternatives to make it silent are the Creality Silent Board (more expensive and more limited), the MKS Gen Board (not the smartest routing + bad open source vision) or the Duet Wi-Fi (way too expensive).
• All metal hot end for printing nylon – still debating between the Micro Swiss and E3D V6. Micro Swiss is a drop-in replacement, E3D V6 is Prusa's choice. E3D V6 60 US bracket 30 CAD, micro swiss le moins cher chez 3d printing canada
• Steel bed (44 CAD) because they do custom size + metal sheet is necessary to work with the PINDA probe + recommended surface (PEI) to print nylon.
• Silicon heater (46 CAD, custom quote via Aliexpress message) for the new longer heatbed.
• Noctua fans all the way

Money wisely spent (searched for the best price) :

• Printer (banggood): 284.34
• Probe (aliexpress) : 16.40
• SKR Board with silent drivers (aliexpress) : 53.61
• PEI+Steel sheet (aliexpress) : 55.55
• Microswiss all-metal (3Dprintingcanada) : 112.62
• Tungstene carbide nozzle (dyze design) : 69.11
• Noctua fans + blower (amazon) : 82.53

Money less wisely spent (bought locally in a hurry) :

• Two aluminum beds (abra) : 55.86
• V slot rail (abra): 20.55
• PT100 thermistor for microswiss (abra) : 5.98
• 50W heater for microswiss (abra) : 8.39
• OB-585 build plate (abra) : 27.90

So far, total : 792.84

Still cheaper than a Prusa, I have two hot ends I can swap (one for PLA, one for Nylon-CF), the Nylon-CF setup is top notch, the controler board is the best there is, I have autoleveling, and it (mainly) fits inside my ikea box :) :) (which acts as an enclosure, necessary for nylon).

Would I do it again / recommend? No, too much work. When you want to go custom I realised it is better to start from the most popular base (ie, Ender 3) and if there is a simple solution out there for your custom needs (ie, silent board from creality) choose it.

Am i happy with it? Yes, works beautifully!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_B0FLT7NHY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGN2iSQ5j4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5M7DvdMcew