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Flyingbearp902 build

Note : I am planning to install a laser on the printer. This document is going to cover the build of the machine AND the installation of a laser on it.

Ordered from Canada. Duties were 35.11$ at the door. Came in 14 Days.

Building info

Installing Cura

  • Follow instructions from manufacturer dropbox about Cura

Installing repetier

checker Octoprint ou mattercontrol la place de repetier?


As it's going to draw quite some amps, you should not trust what's coming in the kit. Throw away the power supply cord, as you can find good ones for 1$ in a second hand store. The power cord being 1$ and the xbow power supply being 3,70$, why would I risk to see my house catching on fire during a long night print?

I'm going to use those GX-16 (a.k.a aviation or CB connectors) 6 connectors on the side of the printer (SKU 100244 and 100245 at addison).

Good links here

Motor calibration

Motor connection diagram is backward, flip all connections on the board.

With a multimeter, mesure Vref for each driver. Red probe goes on the trimpot body, black probe on the negative of power supply. Slightly adjust to get the desired voltages (clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease). Vref X, Y, Z motors : 0.9V. Vref Extruder motor : 1V.

Motor operation

The coordinates are flipped 180deg on the flyingbear : (0;0) is on the top right corner and the X and Y axis are inverted when you jog it manually. I want to flip it for ease of use with the laser. In order to have the bottom corner (0;0) but the endstops at the same place, I need to set them as “X MAX” and “Y MAX” endstops.

To do so, in the configuration.h files, there is lines 434 to 438 and lines 710-711 to modify accordingly. Also, on the ramps board, the endstops need to be moved from Xmin Ymin to Xmax Ymax. I could design holders to have the endstops at (0,0), but first, I need a 3D printer ;)

Also in configuration.h, line 723, replace 220 by 230.

Laser installation

Needs longer fans screws, new length = ?

3d model

In Marlin firmware, in configuration.h, line 724, replace 220 by 200 (important)

Silent motors

Some screws were missing, some I had to sand the head, an axle was too big for a bearing (had to put it in the freezer and heat up the bearing). Take your time, think twice, you might have to order screws, but the machine looks good. Power supply needs to be adjusted. Don't forget it comes from China, so double check everything. I didn't trust the power cord. And I don't trust the power supply, I will replace it soon.

Fans make A LOT of noise. I ordered those silent replacements x2 (CAD 21$ shipping included).

Added a dab of crazy glue on the m3 nuts under the arduino board so I can take out the fan without having to unmount the arduino trom the frame.

I mounted board cooler fan and stepper cooler fan on the same pins behind the power connector.

Uploading firmware : need Arduino 1.6.x

note : buy braided tube

quote :

The heads of the included M3 bolts are too large to fit into the recess of the Z-axis bearings. - The included M3 bolts for the X-axis stepper motor were too long to screw it tightly onto the bracket. - The wiring for all stepper motors (including the extruder) had to be mirrored relative to the graphic in the instructions. - The throat of the extruder/hotend had to be screwed up further towards the filament inlet, as it was impossible to feed the filament into the throat deep down otherwise.


Linear bearings

Chinese linear bearings have game, are noisy, and will eat up your rod (

Replace all bearings with or (need 8), less game, less noise.

flyingbearp902_build.txt · Last modified: 2017/04/02 20:28 by greg